Adventures in Gastronomy

Hello, all! (sorry for the impersonal greeting). I’ve arrived in Paris and have acclimated rather well. I shall bore you know with all of the details.

The flight was wonderful. Seriously – excellent! The plane was half empty so once we were in flight everybody just spread out. When the flight attendants handed us the customs forms to fill out, the cute boy sitting across the aisle away from me handed me his form and asked if he filled it our correctly. He did…but I was encouraged t read that he claimed his career to be “student/porn star”. I thought it was my lucky day until further conversation revealed that he was straight.

Brad sat next to me for the first part of the flight and we played Rummy for a few hours. The movies were rather blah (Big Fish and Seabiscuit) so I ended up laying down (I had an entire row to myself). The flight attendant, Jason, was very sweet (yes, I got his name). I’m not sure why, but everytime he walked by, Brad and I started giggling like school girls. By the end of the flight, he would start looking at us and start giggling along with is coworker. As the plane was making it’s final descent into Paris, he walked up and started chatting with us. He then handed me a bag and said “Here…enjoy”. It was a bottle of champagne! What a start to the trip!

We arrived in Paris just before 7AM on Wednesday morning. It was still pitch black out. Apparently, the sun doesn’t rise here in October until about 8AM.

After getting to Mark’s apartment (our host) we headed off to grab some food (croissants and juice). We then took brief naps before letting the adventures begin. Our first stop was taking the metro to the Opera. Of course it would be easiest to describe my adventures in tourism with the aid of photos, but I don’t have the capability to download and reduce them right now. Alas, you’ll have to live with my vague written descriptions.

After viewing the exterior and lobby of the Opera house, we sought out a chapel that Brad had wanted to see. We had lunch at this little cafe and had fun with a sassy French waitress. I ordered a “limonade” and recieved a bottle of something called “Pshitt”. I’m not lying. I liked to pretend that the P was silent.

We finally arrived at the church to see that they had changed the hours of visitation. So we walked back through some grand and beautiful neighborhoods to the Jardin de Tuileries. We also passed through Place Vendome (also, please excuse my lack of accent marks..but I am trying here) and then the Louvre. We then walked along the banks of the Siene until arriving back at the apartment.

Oh, I probably should have started here, but Mark’s home is on Isle Saint Louis – and island in the middle of the Seine smack dab in the center of the city. It’s in a really old building with curving staircases, open courtyards, exposed beams and a view overlooking the Siene and Le Marais. Charm can’t begin to describe the place.

That night, we had dinner in Le Marais (the gay area which is within walking distance. Being our first night in France, we opted for the most obvious of meal selections: Asian cuisine. We had a lovely meal overlooking the street and other cafe patrons. FUN FUN FUN.

We walked around a bit (stopping for gelato, of course) and then heading home for the night.

Thursday was spent walking around more neighborhoods. We began by walking to the Latin Quarter and Jardin des Plantes. The we ventured over to the Arenes de Lutece, which is a Roman arena built in the 2nd century and used for burials in the 4th Century. A few narrow and curvy streets led us to Rue Mouffetard. This street was EXACTLY what I expected Paris (or France, in general) to look like. Narrow, slightly hilly, packed with people, vendors and performers everywhere and beautiful old buildings lining the street.

More walking led us to the Pantheon and St-Etienne-du-Mont. I must say, I’ve never been to church so much in my life (it didn’t work at converting me, though). Some more walking brought us to the Jardin du Luxembourg – a beautiful park with a maganificent palace (that is now used as the Senate.

That night, we had dinner (once again) in Le Marais, outside overlooking a park (and lots of gay men. I ordered another Limonade and this time received a bottle of 7-Up.

Friday I woke up sniffling a bit, but we still jumped on the RER train and headed out to the Palace of Versailles. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a large building. Unfortunately, half of the hall of mirrors was being refurbished, but it’s still a spectacular building. However, I think I was more impressed with the massive gardens. Quite stunning.

After having lunch in the garden, the cold made me feel weak. I left Ben and Brad at Versailles and headed back into Paris by myself. I must say, the white trash in me may have enjoyed the views from the train even more than Versailles. I’m realizing that I’m a much bigger fan of urban planning and streetscapes than I am of individual buildings. I like the way the entire environment is composed. Anyway, the train brings you through fascinating neighborhoods of rolling hills densely packed with housing and industry….and not a grid street pattern to be found!

That night, Mark made plans for us to eat with some of his friends. We ended up at an uber-trendy place designed by Phillipe Starke (apparently it is “the” place to be seen. I’ve never felt so ugly in my life. The staff there were absolutely gorgeous to the point of intimidation. By the end of our meal (approaching midnight) the DJ (yes, the restaurant had a DJ) turned up the volume considerably to the point that conversation was impossible. We left and walked home passing by Notre Dame.

On Saturday Ben, Brad and Mark did a morning performance (they’re singers) and I slept late. That afternoon, we went to the Montmartre neighborhood and checked out Sacre Couer and other churches. Then we climbed up and down the steep and twisty streets taking pictures.

This evening, Mark invited friends over and had the most amazing meal. What a host! There was some sort of avacado soup, some pork loin with figs, then salad, and finally chocolate mousse.

Now it is nearly 1 AM and my cold medicine is kicking in. So, here are some observations in closing:

1. French people do eat baguettes. All the time. You go to any shop, bet a baguette in a sleeve of paper and eat it while walking (or sitting at a park). Often, people have meats and cheeses inside.


2. French people do eat pate. I’ve had duck and even goose pate so far.


3. French toilets are peculiar. All of the ones I’ve used so far have the normal basin you sit on, but no lever for flushing. Instead, there is a square panel built into the wall (about 6 inches square). You push in the whole panel to flush the toilet. Fun.


4. Although they drive on the same side of the street as us, their trains run on the opposite side (subways run on the same side). Odd.


5. French people are not rude. I’ve had nothing but great interractions. In fact, the ticket counter agent at Versailles (and adorable French guy) flirted with me and told Brad that I was cute (he couldn’t tell me directly as I can’t speak French).


6. Scooters and mopeds are everywhere here. People just drive up onto the sidewalk and park anywhere. I wish Boston would promote this method of transportation. They also have the most unusual car brands here with those “mini”cars. No, not Mini Coopers, but these dwarf cars that are less than half the size of a Honda Civic.


7. Paris has rush hour 24 hours per day. I’ve never not seen a traffic jam.


8. Sidewalks throughout the city have these metal posts along the edges that are annoying as hell. They’re apparently there to keep the traffic from driving up onto the sidewalk and killing pedestrians. But they are obnoxious.

Um – that’s it so far! I’ll have pictures soon enough! Have I bored you yet?

October 8th, 2005
Categories: Uncategorized . Author: snarl

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