{"id":126,"date":"2005-03-18T15:17:02","date_gmt":"2005-03-18T19:17:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blogs.law.harvard.edu\/dbnews\/2005\/03\/18\/cruising-for-a-bates-motel\/"},"modified":"2005-03-18T15:17:02","modified_gmt":"2005-03-18T19:17:02","slug":"cruising-for-a-bates-motel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/2005\/03\/18\/cruising-for-a-bates-motel\/","title":{"rendered":"Cruising for a Bates Motel"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a name='a4734'><\/a><\/p>\n<table width=\"537\" border=\"0\">\n<tr>\n<td>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/cyber.law.harvard.edu\/blogs\/static\/dowbrigade\/cad1.jpg\" width=\"400\" height=\"194\" align=\"left\">It<br \/>\n        was nearly midnight and the Dowbrigade was roaring up the Tamiana Highway,<br \/>\n        about five miles south of Punta Gorda, looking for a Florida version<br \/>\n        of the Bates Motel. <\/p>\n<p>After booking our flights and rental car on-line, we had searched for<br \/>\n        a hotel room in the Ft. Myers area, Between Orbitz, Cheaprooms.com and<br \/>\n        Roomsaver<a href=\"http:\/\/www.forbes.com\/billionaires\"><\/a>, the best<br \/>\n        we could do was a Best Western at $139. Quite frankly, after having frequented<br \/>\n        establishments in over 20 countries on five continents, we have never<br \/>\n        paid $139 for a single hotel room. Not that we haven&#8217;t STAYED in a few,<br \/>\n        but we never paid for them. <\/p>\n<p>Still, it was only for two nights, and it was our only vacation for<br \/>\n        over a year, and most of the rest of the trip we would be staying with<br \/>\n        friends, so we decided to go ahead and book. We entered the dates and<br \/>\n        hit return, only to get the bane of online shopping; &quot;Not available for<br \/>\n        the dates requested&quot;. Screw them, we thought, we&#8217;ll get down there and<br \/>\n        take our chances.<\/p>\n<p>We knew that Ft. Myers, like all American cities, must have a fringe<br \/>\n        of scuzzy motels lying below the surface of searchable data, dumps and<br \/>\n        dives which live on the edges of illicit markets in sex and controlled<br \/>\n        substances, cater to anonymous travelers unwilling or incapable of making<br \/>\n        reservations in advance and give out credit card information over the<br \/>\n        internet. These stand-alone American institutions, never part of a chain,<br \/>\n        changing owners and names more frequently than they change the sheets,<br \/>\n        have been a refuge for fringe players, roustabouts and borderline derelicts<br \/>\n        since the rise of our mobile society almost a century ago.<\/p>\n<p>Unlike the next higher category, the cheapo chains like Motel 6 and<br \/>\n        Econolodge which dot the Interstate highway system, these sleaze-boxes<br \/>\n        are found on secondary highways and depressed urban neighborhoods, squeezed<br \/>\n        between Check Cashing storefronts,&nbsp; 24-hour bail bondsmen and tattoo<br \/>\n        emporiums. Which was why we were flying up the Tamiani Trail, which was<br \/>\n        the main North-South highway down the spine of Florida before the inauguration<br \/>\n        of Interstate 75 during the Eisenhower administration.<\/p>\n<p>Our vehicle for the trip was a brand new Jeep Cherokee 4&#215;4, a big blue<br \/>\n        brute of a car which had us thinking about forgetting the highway altogether<br \/>\n        and cutting our straight across the Everglades toward our next designation<br \/>\n        in Rat Mouth, on the other side of the state. Actually, we had reserved<br \/>\n        a mid-sized sedan; we had been awarded The Blue Beast by Dollar Rent-a-Car<br \/>\n        either due to a clerical error or the<br \/>\n        fact<br \/>\n        that<br \/>\n        when<br \/>\n        we arrived<br \/>\n        late<br \/>\n        Tuesday<br \/>\n        night<br \/>\n        it was the last vehicle in the lot. <\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/cyber.law.harvard.edu\/blogs\/static\/dowbrigade\/caddymotel.jpg\" width=\"400\" height=\"336\" align=\"right\">It<br \/>\n        was cherry, with less than 1900 miles on the odometer, the manual still<br \/>\n        wrapped in cellophane in the GP and the new-car smell still wafting<br \/>\n        through the vehicle&#8217;s circulatory system. The interior was pristine,<br \/>\n        at least until we dropped a Chinese barbequed spare rib from the Pu Pu<br \/>\n        Platter we picked up on our way out of town, on the front seat upholstery.<\/p>\n<p>It was getting late, and it was getting harder and harder to focus on<br \/>\n        the white stripe snaking down the highway. We decided that we would press<br \/>\n        on to Punta Gorda, and if we still hadn&#8217;t found anything we would turn<br \/>\n        around and go back to the Wal-Mart parking lot we had seen half an hour<br \/>\n        earlier, and camp out in the back seat of the Jeep until dawn.<\/p>\n<p>Then we saw it, lying low and white in the moonlight, surrounded by<br \/>\n        apparently abandoned cars, discarded tires, a disintegrating jungle<br \/>\n        gym and overgrown weed fields. Next door was Big Al&#8217;s Gun and Pawn Shop,<br \/>\n        shut down for the night. Jerked out of our reverie, we swerved to the<br \/>\n        left of the empty highway and fishtailed<br \/>\n        into<br \/>\n        the gravel-packed<br \/>\n        driveway of the motel.<\/p>\n<p>The sign on the side said &quot;Cadillac Hotel&quot; but one over the office door<br \/>\n        said &quot;American Motel&quot;. A recent change of name is a good sign, when looking<br \/>\n        for a comfortable dive with a lot of leeway and very little memory.<\/p>\n<p>The office small, well-lit and empty. Sheets and towels, pamphlets and<br \/>\n        magazines, door latches and locks, bags and boxes were scattered on the<br \/>\n        floor and piled on the unmatched collection of cheap folding chairs.<br \/>\n        There was a service window to the right of the door, which was locked.<br \/>\n        We rang, and were buzzed in.<\/p>\n<p>We were attended by a young woman in a blue sari, with her hair swept<br \/>\n        under a matching silk scarf who informed us that there was a single room<br \/>\n        left, at $80 bucks a night. We asked to see it and said that if it was<br \/>\n        decent we&#8217;d take it. <\/p>\n<p>Turns out the hotel was currently owned by<br \/>\n          a family of Hindus. During the fifteen minutes it took us to register<br \/>\n        we met three sisters of the girl who was waiting on us, her parents (who<br \/>\n        seemed to speak no English not know how to smile) an ancient grandmother<br \/>\n        who walked with difficulty and a cane, and two young nephews who darted<br \/>\n        out periodically to check the Coke machine for uncollected change.&nbsp; They<br \/>\n        all seemed to live in a small room behind the office.<\/p>\n<p>The room itself was surprisingly adequate. A big Queen-sized covered<br \/>\n        by a polyester spread. A no-brand TV against the wall with the remote<br \/>\n        on the bedside table. A small refrigerator and microwave in the corner.<br \/>\n        A cracked and creaking A\/C unit under the uncovered window. No obvious<br \/>\n        vermin or bodily fluids in sight. We took it on the spot<\/p>\n<p>The place was perfect. The last room was around back. facing an overgrown<br \/>\n        yard backing up on a trailer park and some cheap clapboard houses that<br \/>\n        looked as if they had been abandoned in mid-construction. There were<br \/>\n        two molded white plastic chairs set up outside or room. It was the kind<br \/>\n        of place one could feel comfortable sitting in your underwear, smoking<br \/>\n        a joint and drinking a beer. Just what we&#8217;d been looking for.<\/p>\n<p>We stripped off our travel-saturated clothes and let the hot shower<br \/>\n        water sluice over our tired body. Our faith in the rancid underbelly<br \/>\n        of modern American life was reaffirmed. As we leaned back in the<br \/>\n        white<br \/>\n        plastic chair and let our mind wander, we were reminded of innumerable<br \/>\n        other memorable dives from our past.&nbsp; The University Motel in East<br \/>\n        LA, where we holed up for an entire 5-day academic conference, skipping<br \/>\n        every session except those where we were expected to present.&nbsp; The<br \/>\n        Yenny, an ersatz whore house on the waterfront in Guayaqul, where for<br \/>\n        years we were a regular guest and where we even took our pregnant first<br \/>\n        wife when she developed some gynecological health problems and we had<br \/>\n        no access to conventional medical resources.&nbsp; But those were different<br \/>\n        times, and stories for a different posting.<\/p>\n<p>Our challenge for tomorrow: getting tickets to a sold-out preseason<br \/>\n        rematch of last October&#8217;s World Series &#8211; Red Sox vs. Cardinals.&nbsp; Stay<br \/>\n        tuned for the report.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/table>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It was nearly midnight and the Dowbrigade was roaring up the Tamiana Highway, about five miles south of Punta Gorda, looking for a Florida version of the Bates Motel. After booking our flights and rental car on-line, we had searched &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/2005\/03\/18\/cruising-for-a-bates-motel\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":299,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1444],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-126","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-prose-screeds"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/126","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/299"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=126"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/126\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=126"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=126"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/archive.blogs.harvard.edu\/dowbrigade\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=126"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}